Today is Kyrgyzstan’s Independence Day. They got their Independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Independence Day does not seem to be a big deal, though. According to our guide, older people in Kyrgyzstan were not happy with the split from the USSR. Under the USSR, they had jobs, incomes, a pension. (They still get a pension, but it is a pittance–about $40 a month.) Once the USSR collapsed, they suddenly had to find ways to make money or starve. Our guide said his parents sold their flat for $600, moved to the capital, and then spent their remaining $500 to go over to China and bring back goods to sale. Times were rough for sure. So, anyways, seems like the elders are harkening for the good old communist days. The younger generation is not. Interestingly enough, our guide studied as a pediatrician but never finished his residency. He makes more moolah as a tour guide than he would as a doctor. Don’t worry–he has 5 kids, so he can still use those doctor skills.

Traditionally, the Kyrgz people are nomads. They live in yurts and move up and down the mountains with the weather. They don’t have any ancient buildings or mosques in Kyrgyzstan. Just yurts.  They are still finding their own architectural identity, but the yurt is the center of it all.  The Kyrgyzstan flag even features a tündük, which is the top circle part of the yurt. Obviously, yurts are very important.  We’ve slept in yurts, eaten in yurts, and today we learned how to make yurts. 

All the yurts in Kyrgyzstan are made in one village called  Kyzyl Tuu. I could order a mid-sized one for about $2,500 or a large one for $3,500, but it would probably cost that much or more to ship it to the United States. I think it would still be a great investment because I could set it up in the backyard and rent it out as an Air B&B.  It would pay for itself in no time! It’s brilliant, really! Who wouldn’t want to sleep in a yurt in my backyard?!?

There are about 450 families making yurts in this village.  It takes 4 people a month to create the framework for it.  I don’t know how long it takes to create the felt walls for it.  

The wood comes from the willow tree because it is fast growing, flexible, and straight. The branches have to grow for three years before they are the right size to harvest. The big yurts are about 6 meters, and require 85 sticks to make the top part.  They steam heat the wood for about 20 minutes, and then bend it all manually using a giant vise. 

All of the pieces are held together with leather nails.  Yes, leather. Leather will last up to 100 years, but actual nails will rust out in a couple of years.  The center Tündük is made with two pieces of wood, and it takes 4 people to bend it around the metal circle mold, so that needs real nails to keep it together. However, as soon as the wood is dry and the shape is set, they replace the metal nails with leather nails. 

The bottom half of the yurt walls is like a giant piece of lattice. Guess what? That lattice is made with leather nails too! The lattice stretches out, but is easy to fold up–like those coffee mug holders–the ones that you can stretch out and then fold back together like an accordion. This flexibility is important for the nomadic life. You have to be able to move the yurt around easily–they don’t have wide load semis to do it for them. Just yaks. Plus, in times of war, you can tear apart the yurt walls, fold them up, and use them as a shield to protect you from arrows. Or, you can lay it over your baby to protect them. It is curved in the middle since the wood was bent. Even if a grown man steps on it, it won’t break. Those leather nails are tougher than nails! It’s great to have a multifunctional house!

I had hoped that this demonstration would help me prepare for the zombie apocalypse. What I have learned is that I need to plant a grove of willow trees. Without trees, we will not survive the zombies. I should probably start raising cattle for the leather, too. I wonder if we could use yak leather? I’m also going to need a lot of sheep so I can make the felt like we learned a couple of days ago. However, I think I’ll shake things up and try to make the felt with alpaca wool instead of sheep. It will be softer, and one of a kind. And then my Air B&B will have the added draw of Alpaca farm. This plan is just getting better and better! Everyone loves a good alpaca farm.  Adventure you say, I’ll alpaca my bags! Everyone loves a good alpaca pun too!

After this super informative lesson in yurt making, we were off to lunch–in, guess what? A yurt! The focal point of this trip seems to be the yurt. Obviously, thetwinsontour love yurts, so this is okay with us.

Next up–scenic viewpoints! I do love me some good nature! Thank goodness  because yurt building is fascinating, but not a great selfie activity. We stopped first at The Broken Heart–a geological formation that looks like a broken heart split in 2. Then across the street is the viewpoint for the Seven Bulls rock formation, a row of seven hills that someone decided looked like seven bulls, and then that’s the name forever. It’s hard to capture the beauty in words, so I guess you will just have to come to Kyrgyzstan and see it for yourself.

And that’s the highlights of Day 6.

Love,

thetwinsontour