
The Society for the Conservation of Penguins Needs Your Support 2/16/2006



thetwinsontour

Japanese curling fans are the best dressed!


Venue

Our personal Canadians that taught us the secrets to curling


The curling venues have gotten a little bigger since 2006

ps-hot pink is a great color for the men in our audience
Ahh, we have finally had time to track down the internet. This was the
events have kept us very, very busy.
Columbia Day 9
Today was a beach day! There are lots of beach tour packages in the area. We opted to go with the most economical because it gave us the most time at the beach and included lunch all for the low price of $40,000 (about $13 so you don’t need to dig out your currency converter). When you can find transportation to a beach over an hour away for that price why do more research? Of course, it was a bit of a mad house trying to figure out which corner of the plaza we were supposed to be on for the bus. People kept dragging us all over the place, and it was so hot–even at 8 o’clock in the morning. But obviously, it all worked out.
We made it to the beach, and then we paid $40,000 (yes, the same as the whole trip) for our umbrella and 2 lounge chairs–there is an upcharge if you want 2 lounge chairs. I managed to negotiate down from $50,000 but I was too hot after walking from the bus to our designated spot on the beach to haggle any further. They were prime chairs because the people next to us ended up laying directly behind/underneath them.
And then we spent the rest of the day floating in the Caribbean ocean. It was glorious. The sand was white. The beach was narrow, but stretched for a mile or so. The water was warm, and fairly clear. It had a green tint. The water got a little wavy, but that may have been because of the massive number of jet skis for rent and the banana boat which also covered up the smell of salt water with gas fumes. And it was crowded with people, but we didn’t care.
I am not sure how many massages I turned down, but I turned down even more “pearl” and “coral” bracelets. All too soon, it was time to head back to the bus. Just one problem, the guide couldn’t find the bus. Now it doesn’t make much sense to me at all why he didn’t have the bus drivers phone number to call him. He walked all over the muddy parking lot in the blistering heat looking for the bus, and then to the next lot. All the while we stood there in the sweltering sun literally sweating out sunscreen. Finally, the parking lot attendant said there was an accident on the road, but the driver would be there soon. The way I look at it is that we could have had an extra half hour on the beach instead of wasting a half hour in a muddy parking lot, but oh well. The beach was still great.
Love,
thetwinsontour
Colombia Day 7 & 8
Saturday morning we left Medellin just in time to avoid the Pope and all of the craziness that ensues. He arrived in Medellin at the other airport, so we were safe. Our plane was mysteriously delayed for over an hour and changed gates a few times though.
The airport in Cartagena is very close to the old town, so within 10 minutes we were dropped at our hotel right in the middle of it all. The only problem is that there are 2 Casa Blanca hotels! And of course, this one is way outside of our budget. They hailed us a taxi and sent us on our way. The taxi driver only had to ask 4 different people where the hotel was (fruit sellers on the corner, a man sitting on his couch in his living room, etc). The taxi drivers in Colombia ask a lot of directions though. We finally found it, but then our taxi driver got into an argument with another taxi driver about a one way street. So he parked around the corner and said that he would escort us to the hotel. Now I am not sure if that was to ensure our safety or to yell at the hotel owner for not having a sign. My vote is for the latter.
We had no plans for the rest of the day, so we asked the hotel guy where to go eat lunch and it was like he was a mind reader who could read the depths of our souls. He suggested Hamburguesa de Patacones– a hamburger that utilizes large, smooshed, and fried plantains instead of a bun? holy guacamole! That is what I am talking about! (I don’t even like guacamole, which is a pity because there are a plethora of avocados in this country– almost as many as there are hat vendors.) Needless to say, lunch was ah-maz-ing!
After lunch, we whipped out our handy little map and successfully navigated ourselves to the old town, which is the highlight of Cartagena, and a mecca for tourists. Anyone who knows thetwinsontour, knows they are directionally challenged and get lost everywhere they go. Quite the feat! Of course, there is no need to mention that we just had to go down the street and make a slight jog to the right to reach our destination. No need to mention that at all. That will be our little secret.
Unfortunately, it had started to rain. Luckily, this time we were prepared with our rain coats! Yeah! We actually used something we packed. We wandered around the old town, from gift shop to gift shop, but nothing caught our eye. Shocking, right?! How can thetwinsontour single handedly improve the economy of Colombia if they can’t find anything to buy?
We did eventually find the gold museum. The best thing is that it was free! thetwinsontour love free stuff! But, you knew that already. There were some nice pre-colombian bits of good work. We tried reading about it, but the rain, our full bellys from lunch, and the early morning flight had us battling to stay awake on our feet.
Right next door to the gold museum was the emerald museum– also free! It is like Cartagena speaks thetwinsontour language!! The emerald consists of 1 room, with a few examples of emeralds as they are found in the mines. Colombia is famous for emeralds, which you would know already if you have watched Romancing the Stone. The emerald museum is conveniently attached to an emerald jewelry store. Imagine that! It is not, however, the emerald shop named Romance In The Stone– that one is on another street.
After all this aimless wandering in the drizzling rain, we successfully navigated ourselves back to our hotel and crashed. Deeply and completely. So we could refresh ourselves for our Sunday in Cartagena.
This was not just any Sunday, though. This was Pope Sunday. The. Pope. In Cartagena. Where 92% of the population is Catholic. And they have had no papal visits since 1986. It’s kind of a big deal. And, I might have bought a souvenir shirt to prove it. We had originally thought to avoid all the craziness of the Pope, but we quickly realized that this wasn’t possible. Almost everything was closed. And there were crowds of Colombians in Pope shirts, wearing Pope baseball caps, and waving Pope flags. We couldn’t get across the street to the old town because the police had it blocked off for the Pope to drive down. This was quite the conundrum because we were looking for breakfast. We found a nice little street kiosk that wanted to sell us a solo cup full of shrimp and other seafood things, but that just isn’t breakfast food even if thetwinsontour liked seafood. Fortunately, they also served juice so we were able to get a glass of Lulo juice, sit at their tables, sip our beverages and watch the faithful gathering at the barriers to wait on the Pope. All this excitement and joy began to spread. They told us the Pope should be passing by at any moment. We decided that we might as well wait and see the old guy. When in Rome, and all that Jazz. Except we weren’t in Rome, and neither was the Pope. We were in Colombia! We quickly realized we forgot the selfie stick in the hotel, and we would need to get decent pics since we were not on the front row. Fortunately, amongst all the people selling Pope shirts, hat’s, key chains, flags, posters, magnets, and statues, there was one man with selfie sticks for 10,000 pesos! What a deal! $3 bucks to add another selfie stick to our growing collection.
We waited. And waited. Pretty sure the Pope must have stopped for a nap. And we waited. We thought for sure the people would be singing Ave Maria or reciting The Lord’s Prayer or something, but nothing. Just people waiting in eager anticipation. Then the helicopters started to fly overhead. The police started driving down the road. Then there was a random taxi. Then more police on motorcycles. And more police. And then the TV cameras for the 24 hour Pope coverage. Then there was a shout, and the crowd started to roar! El Papa! El Papa! The Pope was coming! And suddenly, there he was, standing up in the glass-enclosed Pope Mobile! Pope Francis! And he was smiling and waving at me! And going way too fast. Within 10 seconds, he had flown past us and disappeared into the old town. I thought the Pope would drive at a more sedate speed. But all too soon it was over. The crowds dispersed quickly, and the man selling Pope hats packed them up and replaced them with Cartagena caps. But the men selling Pope shirts out of a suitcase were having a heyday selling up their shirts, $7,000 or 2 for $12,000. How can you pass up a deal like that? Thetwinsontour certainly couldn’t! And that’s how in our post Pope euphoria, we ended up with $2 Pope shirts that we will never wear, but that Pope fever sure is contagious!
So we walked into the old town which was full of hopeful Pope- shirt -wearing people, and closed shops and restaurants. We were so intent on finding a bathroom that we missed the Pope 2 times. We knew that there was a bathroom in the Gold Museum (which we later found out was closed) so we tried to get there, but when we got to the church, the road was closed. We turned around to go another direction, but before we made it too far there was a cheer and an empty Popemobile. Then later, after we had found a bathroom we saw a crowd of people standing at a blocked off road. Again there was a cheer! The Popearrazzi, aka thetwinsontour went off at a run, I mean a slight jog, I mean a brisk walk. Alas he had already passed. So close!
We had decided that our cultural and sightseeing activity of the day was going to be to walk along the city walls because literally nearly everything else was closed. So we walked along the wall, and there was only one spot where my mother would have said, “Girls that’s just not safe” because we were literally walking on top of a narrow part instead of the walkway beside the wall. Then do you know what happened? We came to a bridge over the road, and it was roped off with police standing guard and a building crowd. I asked the police, “cuando viene el Papa?” He said at 3pm which was just 18 minutes away! So guess what we did? That’s right, we found an open spot along the barriers and joined the Pope watch, again! Of course it was more than 18 minutes. It was so hot and humid, that I was literally melting. I could feel the sweat trickling down my back to my butt crack, but still I held my place with the selfie stick raised and ready to get a picture of the Pope. There were ice cream vendors everywhere, but we were afraid to turn around to buy one. Besides what would we do if we were eating a messy ice cream bar and the Pope came along? We would miss him. That’s how serious we were in our Pope watching. Everyone knows that thetwinsontour love ice cream, and don’t pass up that chance ever. Finally, there was a fleet of motorcycle police, and the television truck filming everything, but no Popemobile. He was sitting in the front seat of a small black Chevy. We almost missed him! But there he was, smiling and waving. And that my dear friends, is how we saw the Pope twice in one day. So on that note I shall end because what could compare?
Love,
thetwinsontour
PS Don’t worry! We promptly found an ice cream cart, and enjoyed an ice cream in the park.
Colombia Day 6
We had planned to sleep in today because we have had a lot of early mornings this trip, and then take a free walking tour in the afternoon. We had heard great things about said free walking tour, and you know thetwinsontour love free stuff. However, they limit the group size and you can only sign up 36 hours in advance. We had tried to sign up 37 hours in advance, and then we forgot. By the time we remembered, 12 hours in advance, it was too late. So we were frantically searching for something to do while sitting at the food court at one of the many malls near our hotel (they always send us to the mall because there are no stand alone restaurants near our hotel, except McDonald’s) we found another Graffiti tour. We emailed them and they wrote back within 5 minutes even though it was after hours. Amazing response. So just like that we booked another Graffiti tour!
So no sleeping in too late today because we had to meet for our Graffiti tour at 10am. The first 2 hours of the tour we spent riding the Metro and a different set of cable cars than we had the other day. We kept getting off at each stop of the cable car so that he could explain some cultural stuff to us, then we got back on the cable car. We really got our money worth out of that one metro ticket.
At the halfway point, we stopped for a snack. Anyone who knows thetwinsontour is aware that thetwinsontour love snacks. Especially included snacks. And oh boy was this yummy–an arepa with a giant hunk of fresh Colombian cheese on it and a glass of lulo juice. Yummy, yummy. We devoured it.
Then it was time to hop onto a small little city bus to get to the neighborhood with the grafitti. Right as we were getting off the bus, it started to thunder. If you are reading that sentence as ominous foreshadowing, then you are reading it correctly. No sooner than we had stopped in front of our first mural than it started to rain. And then the heavens unfurled. We sought refuge under an awning. And it rained and rained. The owner of said awning invited us into his living room to seek shelter from the rain and even allowed us to use his toilet!! (my aunt doesn’t even allow me to do that!)

sitting on a Colombian couch–they have a little snack stand in the front of the house which is what you see in the window
Eventually our guide decided that the rain had let up enough for us to continue. Said we were tourists and were here for the experience so we wouldn’t mind getting a little wet. Now thetwinsontour are always prepared. Always. (ominous foreshadowing). Yep, our raincoats were safely stashed away in the hotel because it had been so hot and sunny the previous days. Fortunately someone talked her reluctant sister into packing the 99 cent rain poncho that she has been dragging around the world since 2006. Of course, trying to put on one of those ponchos is not so easy–made me feel like George W at the inauguration ceremony. Luckily, I didn’t struggle as much as W, and got my poncho on after just a few seconds of fighting with it. Then we were off, happily snapping graffiti selfies in the rain.
Our graffiti destination was Comuna 13, a favela high up the mountainside that actually has escalators to get people up the hill. There are 6 sets of escalators in total. The elevators are also a Trip advisor top 10, but I don’t think we would ever have been able to find them on our own. They are clean and well maintained, with a guard at the top of each one (job creation more than safety), and each is covered by a canopy to protect from the elements.
The best graffiti artist (in our opinion, so it is true) in Medellin is Chota (Instagram @chota13). They all sign their work with their Instagram name. We went to a coffee shop near his home where his paintings cover the walls. Do you know who else went there recently? Bill Clinton! I don’t know if he bought any artwork or what kind of coffee he ordered though. I apologize for not being more informed because if I know what kind of hotdog he got in Iceland I should know what kind of coffee he got in Colombia. My only excuse is that I was mesmerized by the bright colors of the paintings.
Several people purchased paintings from him. If we had a few days, we could have had one custom made and delivered to our hotel. Since we are leaving Medellin tomorrow at 6:30am that was not really an option. Luckily, we were able to chat with Chota, and he had one ready to go at his house. He showed it to us, and we loved it. You have to study it to see all the details. It is a woman with a bird face. You know thetwinsontour don’t like birds, but we make exceptions for works of art as they don’t poop on you or try to peck your eyes out. In the background you can also see the Metro Cable car, so it is really a fantastic Medellin souvenir. Chota believes that color is life. Thetwinsontour agree with this 100%! Thetwinsontour love bright and colorful things–especially in their house, which is a giant cacophony of color. And of course we took our photo with Chota. The sad thing is, it will probably cost more to frame our painting than it cost to buy it.
We had no other plans after our tour, so we headed towards the botanical gardens, which had rave reviews on Trip advisor and a butterfly house. Sounds fantastic, right? yeah, it was closed until Saturday. Well, fuddy-duddy. So we just walked around a bit looking at the grafitti murals under the Metro tracks for a while, and then headed back.
Good Night!
Love,
thetwinsontour
Colombia Day 5
Today we took a day trip to Guatapé and Peñal. For some reason the tours there are really cheap. For the low price of $30 they pick you up at your hotel, feed you breakfast after 2 hours on the bus, take you to a couple small towns (not super interesting), take you on a boat ride to see the ruins of Pablo Escobar’s house, feed you lunch, and take you to the best selfie pueblito in the world. How can you pass up a deal like that? thetwinsontour love a great deal! We probably could have taken public transportation to get there, but thetwinsontour also love convenient travel as much as they love a great deal, but not as much as they love ice cream.
Anyways we took a boat ride on a lake they created in 1977 when they built a damn and flooded the town of Old Peñol. The main purpose of this is to float past the ruins of Pablo Escobar’s bombed out house and take lots of pictures. But there are also several nice houses that belonged to drug dealers in the 80s and 90s. Now one of them belongs to a famous Colombian soccer player.
The next activity on the itenary was lunch with a beautiful view of Guatapé lake, so that we would have the energy to climb 744 steps to the top of El Peñol, “the rock with the best view in the world.” That part was not included. We had to pay $18,000 (about 6 dollars) for that torture, I mean pleasure. The stairs are nice, evenly spaced, cement stairs with a separate stairway for the ascent and descent. Every 25th stair has the number spray painted on it which is both very discouraging and encouraging at the same time. For example, step 100 seems to scream at you, “Why are you out of breathe already fatty? You still have 644 steps to go.” The same with 125 and 150. Then when you make it to 300, the labored breathing makes you do bad math because you tell yourself that you are halfway there. The steps don’t get encouraging until about 600 when you realize how far you have come and there’s only a few (like 144) left. Our guide had said it would take 15 minutes to get to the top. It took us 20, and someone stopped every 25 steps to breathe and read the signs telling you what number to call for rescue if you start to feel nauseous or light headed, or vomit. We were moving at a marathon snails pace. Once we made it to the top, we realized how breathtaking it was — both literally and figuratively. On the one hand, you are out of breath and sweaty. On the other hand, you are awestruck by the amazing views. From the top of the rock (which is privately owned by the way.) you can get a great 360 view of the surrounding area. The lake/damn is huge with little islets of land that break up the monotany of water give it the appearance of happy little islets and trees. Truly a sight not to be missed.
After what felt like just a few seconds of gazing at the bucolic countryside– actually I don’t know if a lake can be bucolic, may be that is just verdant grasslands with herds of grazing Shetland Kuhs– anyways it looked peaceful and serene and not at all like a former stronghold of the number one enemy of the USA, Pablo Escobar– we decided it was time to head down the rock. Because if you climb 744 stairs up, you have to climb 744 stairs down. There is no elevator, escalator, or zip line to get down. Just your own two feet. The down stairs are to the inside of the up stairs, so they are dark and dank with no view to enjoy at all. Which is a good thing because thetwinsontour had one thing on their mind. No, we are not talking about a sale at Kohl’s. We are talking about local ice cream snacks in local flavors! Hot, diggity dog! Yum yum!
What flavors did thetwinsontour settle on? Arequipa con pasas and Maracuya. Say what? Arequipa is like a dulce de leche/caramel flavor which evidently pairs nicely with raisins. Maracuya is passion fruit. Obviously, we opted for the local ice cream treat. They were kind of like a popsicle or one of those fruit bars, but they were cone shaped. Interestingly, the popsicle stick is at an angle. I was too busy devouring my ice cream to study the physics and logic behind this. Maybe it’s so you don’t lose so much while you are eating it? Or maybe it’s so it doesn’t take up as much space in the freezer. I don’t know. I just know that thetwinsontour love ice cream in any shape or form.
After that we went to the town of Guatapé which is known for its colorful houses. I may be wrong about this because our guide spoke in the biggest mix of Spanglish I have ever heard. His English wasn’t great, but then again neither was his Spanish. I don’t think Guatapé was always colorful. I think they added the color after the drug wars because color means life. Anyways, the part that makes it even more colorful are the zocolos, decorative carvings along the bottom of the building. They vary in content from llamas to sunflowers to pastoral scenes to the Virgin Mary. We took so many pictures, but you should know that. Selfie heaven. All too quick our time was over and we had to head back to Medellin.
And just like that, we are done with Day 5 in Colombia.
Love,
thetwinsontour
PS. Don’t forget to tell all of your friends to like thetwinsontour on Facebook. We need your help to get to a million followers. We are so close! Only about 999,640 to go. Let’s do this! We figure the more likes we get, the closer we get to our ultimate goal of a TV show travelling the world eating ice cream and candy. I know that you all want to watch that!