|
Sri Lanka Day 8 Yala National Park, Sri Lanka
|
Yala National Park, Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka Day 8
Finally! The day the twinsontour have been waiting for forever–a full day of safari in Yala National Park. If you know anything about thetwinsontour, you know how much we adore safari. We love it even more than shopping at Michael’s and Kohl’s combined. Well, actually let’s call it an even tie because we do love a great sale! I mean, who doesn’t love a 60% off all scrapbook embellishments sale? The exhilaration is incomparable. Know what else is incomparable? The thrill of spying an elephant through the brush! Now, this is not a great photo opp by any stretch of the imagination. A picture of some overgrown vegetation with a hint of an elephant leg in the clearing. But there is that moment of anticipation– what if the elephant decides to cross the road?! How exciting would that be?! Alas, they did not. Due to the forest and vegetation, elephants roam in much smaller family groups in this park, about 15-20 compared to the last park where they were in groups of 50-100. Even though the elephant we were oohing and ahhing over did not cross the road or even stick her head out the bushes, there was a lone male elephant up ahead, munching on a bush on the side of the road. Now, we didn’t realize it until later, but this male elephant was in musk, and musk glands were dripping down the side of his face. If my sinuses weren’t always so clogged, I should have noticed his musky smell as we passed by him. But I didn’t. Male elephants in musk go crazy and are very, very dangerous. We were sitting in our safari jeep snapping away and taking selfies oblivious to his mental state.
We went on about our safari and saw plenty of peacocks and peahens– none of whom spread there plummage, some bee eaters– very colorful little birds, spotted deer– they look like an adult Bambi, mongoose– sitting on the side of the road hoping for some irresponsible Chinese tourists to throw him a treat, and of course more monkeys. What we did not see were any leopards. This park is famous for its leopards; it has one of the highest concentration of wild leopards in the world. Our guides heard a rumor that a glimpse of a leopard had been seen, and they were hoping that the leopard would meander into the clearing. So we sat with some other jeeps and waited with eager anticipation. Gradually the other jeeps left, and it was just our 2 jeeps remaining. And we sat there, waiting, wishing, hoping for a great leopard find. We waited forever, probably 30 minutes or more. Alas, it was not meant to be. We had so much time invested that it was hard to leave, but there was also so much more to see. Unfortunately, there were no leopard sightings for us that morning. Even with that disappointment, it was still a great drive. Truly, we do love the unlimited possibilities of game drives.
We left for our morning game drive at 5:30 as the sun was just coming up, but it took a while to get our tickets to enter the park because it doesn’t open until 6 and there were a gazillion other jeeps full of people also waiting to get tickets. By the time we made it back to the lodge at 9:45 for late breakfast, the sun was blazing. It was so hot, it would make a dragon want to retire. (I’ve been waiting forever to use that line! Literally, the first time I heard that song, I mentally filed it away for future use.)
Our hotel was located right on the beach (not visible from our room, but we were fairly close to a watering hole full of crocodiles and water buffalo) so we decided to go check it out. It’s not suitable for swimming because of the strong current and powerful waves. Also, it is not safe to go there early in the morning or at dusk because of wild animals (elephants and wild boar). We weren’t even allowed to walk to and from dinner in the dark because of the potential of wild animals. The wild boar are the most common, and most dangerous. There’s a little guard hut on the trail to the beach, and he asks your room number before he lets you proceed. I guess this is in case you ignore all of the warnings and get in the water. That way if you are swept away to Antarctica they can let your mother know. So basically we just took a bunch of selfies from every angle, except from the top of the really high rocks, while sweating off 5 pounds under the intense rays of the sun.
Before we knew it, it was 2:45 and time to leave for our afternoon safari. For some crazy reason nearly half our group decided to skip the afternoon game drive. Absolutely crazy I say! And boy did they regret it! As we were driving out of the hotel grounds a motorcycle stopped and told our driver something. Then our very slow and cautious driver (he drives slower than Abraham Lincoln) was transformed into a NASCAR driver. What caused this immediate and drastic change? A LEOPARD! In a tree! On the access road to the hotel. We were one of the first jeeps on the scene, but it was already crowded and difficult to get a good view. The viewing was also hampered by the dense foliage of the chosen tree as well as the other brush in front of it that kept blowing in the breeze. We were able to clearly see a tail and it’s 2 front legs, and that was about it. I got one picture where I can see an eye. But it was still super exciting to see a half a leopard before we had even made it out of the gate. Of course, word of the leopard spread like wildfire and there was quickly a huge traffic jam of jeeps angling for the best position. Its quite rare to see a leopard in this area. In the past 15 years, this is only the 2nd time our guide Su has seen a leopard so close to the lodge.
So on that leopard euphoria we headed back to Yala National Park to continue our game drive. We saw more water buffalo, deer, and wild boars. Actually, there’s a good chance they were the same ones we saw in the morning because they were still in the same spots.
We saw a few more elephants hiding amongst the trees, and then came the moment that strikes fear in the hearts of tour guides and safari drivers. There was a large male elephant pacing back and forth across the road and a couple of jeeps near him. We didn’t get too close because he was clearly agitated. His tail was sticking up. I didn’t notice if his ears were flared or not because Asian elephants have much smaller ears than African elephants. So we sat there a few seconds waiting for him to move on so that we could safely continue down the road. Then he noticed us. With a roar of his trunk, an angry stampeding elephant started towards us at an incredible speed. Our NASCAR safari driver returned with a vengeance! I didn’t know it was possible to go that fast in reverse–about 25-30mph. Luckily, there was no one behind us. It seemed to last forever, like time had switched to slow motion, but we caught it on video and it was only 11 seconds (the stampede not the anxious pacing). This time we were able to smell the musk in the air quite clearly. Being around an elephant in musk can be risky and dangerous. Now I understand even more why our safari drivers in Africa gave them such a wide berth, especially since African elephants are much larger. And in case you are keeping track, this is one of the 93% of male elephants in Sri Lanka without tusks.
Perhaps the biggest coup of the drive was spotting the rarest bird in all of Sri Lanka! Ok, so it wasn’t that exciting, but it did happen. There are only 10-12 pairs of black necked stork in all of Sri Lanka and we saw a pair of them! With luck like that, I am sure to win the next Powerball! It’s destiny! Soon my dreams of quitting my job and following Bon Jovi around the world will come to fruition! I can feel it. The black necked stork is found in other countries, but it’s rare in Sri Lanka. It may be rare in other countries too, but I don’t know. Or it could be as prolific as the Canadian goose– like my own personnal nemesis — Francine and Edgar– are back outside my office again this year and will soon start nesting and attacking parked cars. I really don’t care about birds, rare or not.
The rest of the game drive was uneventful, but we had enough excitement for the day. We tried to find a bear, but no luck. Who knew that they had bear in Sri Lanka? We sure didn’t. It would have been so amazing to see one. I guess that gives us a reason to come back some day.
So that is our day in a nutshell. The world’s largest walnut shell, but still a nutshell.
Love,
Thetwinsontour